A Basic Guide to Prairie Points

All photos are provided by the designer.

Prairie points are a fun way to add 3-dimensional, visual interest to the edge of a quilt or within the body of a quilt.  They can look quite intricate but are straightforward to make.  This article provides the basics for measuring and constructing prairie points without getting too technical on the math calculations for them.

What Are Prairie Points?

Prairie points are created from squares of fabric folded into fourths, creating triangles with finished edges on two sides and all raw edges along the bottom, longest side.

Square folded and pressed on the diagonal once…

…then folded once more and pressed to form a prairie point.

This prairie point has raw edges only at the bottom and folded, finished edges along the top two sides of the triangle.

They are sewn onto the edges of a quilt instead of binding (finishing the back of the quilt differently than regular binding) or can be added within the body of a quilt along any seamline.

They can also be added to a quilt top in a curved shape with a finished bias fabric strip to cover the raw edges.

This dance quilt features prairie points pointing toward the dancer, adding a 3D feel to the quilt top.

What Size Should the Prairie Points Be?

Consider the overall size of the quilt as a guideline for the size of the prairie points.

Choose a size that complements the quilt rather than dominating it or seeming too small (almost like a rickrack edge!).

To “audition” sizes, try different sizes of paper squares folded and placed along the quilt edge to determine the size preferred.

A typical size for prairie points could be 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches along the bottom edge of the triangle.

Cutting Squares for the Prairie Points

Once the desired size for the finished prairie points has been determined, add 1/2 inch for seam allowances.  This is how big the squares should be cut.

For example:

For a finished 3 in. triangle edge, add 1/2 inch:  3 + 1/2 = 3-1/2 in.

Cut the squares 3-1/2 in. along each edge.

How Many Squares to Cut?

There are more exact formulas available for determining the number of squares to cut but here is a simplified guideline.

• Measure each side of the quilt.
• Determine how much of an overlap is desired in the placement of the points. For example, 1/2 inch overlap between points.
• Measure the “usable length” of the prairie point (the distance in between the overlaps). The usable length changes with the amount of overlap.
  
  
  
• Divide each side length by the usable length. Round up.

(Quilt Side Length ÷ Usable length) + 1 (or add a few more for insurance)

This is the approximate number of squares needed for that side. It is always advisable to add a few extra squares in case they are needed.

For our example with 3 in. prairie points and for a 42 in. long side of a quilt:

• For a 1/2 in. overlap, the usable length will be 2-1/2 in. It is recommended to confirm the usable length by laying out a few points and measuring the usable length.
• Calculating using the above formula:
  • 42 ÷ 2.5 = 16.8, round up to 17
  • Add a few more for insurance, 17 + 3 = 20
  • Cut 20 squares for the points for this side of the quilt.
  • Repeat the process for each side of the quilt.

Placing the Prairie Points on the Quilt

Beginning at one end, pin the points in place POINTING INWARD along the edge, using a ruler to guide placement of each new point for the correct overlap amount.

Use a ruler to check the overlap as each prairie point is added and pinned in place.

Fine-tune the spacing to fit the points evenly across the edge. Small changes in the amount of overlap will not be detectible visually. Aim for overall uniformity of spacing.

Stitching the Prairie Points and Finishing the Quilt Edges

It is easiest to pin and stitch the prairie points to the quilt top before layering with batting and backing.

After stitching the points onto each side, press the points away from the edge, with the seam turning down on the inside.

If layering the quilt has already been done and the top has been quilted, push the batting and backing backward, away from the quilt top and pin the batting and backing out of the way so the points can be stitched to the top only.

After attaching the prairie points to the quilt top, layering with batting and backing and finishing the quilting (taking care not to quilt all the way to the edges):

• Push the batting under the seam where the prairie points were stitched.
  • Trim batting by 1/4 in. if necessary to push it under the seam.
    
• Trim the backing so it is just 1/4 in. longer than the quilt edges.
• Turn under the 1/4 in. extra allowance on the backing and pin in place even with the quilt top edge.
  
• Sew the backing in place.
  
  • One option is to hand-sew as invisibly as possible.
  • A second option is to stitch by machine very close to the pinned edge, taking care to catch the edge on the other side and to keep stitching as neat and even as possible.  The stitching will be seen on both sides of the quilt.
    
    

Prairie Points in Other Areas of the Quilt

To insert prairie points on the quilt top, follow the same instructions as above, placing them POINTING INWARD along a seam line.

Stitch the seam as usual, then smooth the prairie points so they face away from the seam. Press in place.

To insert them in a curved area, first create bias tape using any standard method or use purchased bias tape.

Make and place the prairie points along the curved area, pointing in the desired direction.

Cover the raw-edges of the prairie point edges with the bias tape.

Stitch carefully along each edge, stitching in the same direction on each side to avoid pulling and shifting of the tape.

Prairie points are a fun, creative, colorful way to add visual interest and texture variety to a quilt!